I have been working with the Fuji S3 Pro UVIR already modified for Infrared and have been happy with the results from the test trials I conducted. The middle of a very sunny summer day, when the sun is at its height is the best time of day to shoot infrared and bracket, bracket, bracket. There was so much bracketing that I finally set the camera on a -3.0 EC and went plus or minus from there, checking the histogram as I went. I used the Hoya R72 filter. These IR filters have to be the screw on type to allow no other light in. I bought the 77mm and will use step rings to fit other lenses than my Nikon 17-35mm wide angle. I use the wide angle lens since IR lends itself well to wide angle shots. The autofocus gives me sharp images on this lens. You have to compose your shot before you attach the filter since they are so dark it's impossible to frame your shot with the filter on. The best time of the year to shoot infrared is summer when there's maximum chlorophyll content in leaves. The higher the sun is the better as well, since most infrared shots are long exposures. So while other photographers are hiding from the midday sun, IR shooters are out there. In Photoshop when you open up the file it's reddish due to the dark red color of the filter. Although I shoot RAW I adjust the Kelvin temperature to 4200 degrees, click the auto exposure and if I like that I'll save it as a 16-bit tif. Open the file in Photoshop, then convert it to B/W via the Channel Mixer method usually selecting the channel that you feel is the best. Avoid selecting the blue channel since it adds a lot of noise to the image (unless, of course, you like that look). Use curves and levels to correct your image. You can sharpen the image or if you want to go for the blurry look of Infrared b/w film you can add Gaussian blur. My current workflow: Processing the images requires lots of steps in Photoshop but are worth it with the end results. 1. In Camera Raw set the Kelvin temperature to 4200, click on the Auto above Exposure, keep it if you like it or adjust manually. Save the file as a 16-bit Pro Photo RGB TIF at 300 dpi. 2. When you open the file in Photoshop, you'll see a reddish cast to the image, which we're going to convert to black and white. 3. Use your favorite method for converting a color file to black and white. This is my favorite way: Look at the channels and see which one is most pleasing to you, usually the Red or Green channels, before adding the Channel Mixer layer, reselect the RGB in Channels so that all three colors are selected. Add an adjustment layer for Channel Mixer, select the Channel you liked best in the dropdown menu on top, then click on the Monochrome box, adjust the sliders until you are happy with the image, adjust the Constant slider to bring some brightness to the image. 4. Once you're happy with this we're going to use Levels and/or Curves to further adjust the image. I've been using Curves and selecting the Increase Contrast (RGB) from the dropdown menu in the Presets menu. Continue with Levels if you think the image needs more adjustment. I'm finding that all the images need at least one or both of these adjustments. 5. As a last step, to give the image the soft look of Infrared film, copy your original layer and add Gaussian Blur at 24 pixels or more. Adjust the Opacity down to 25%–30% or to your own taste. 6. If you prefer a crisp look to your image instead of the softer look, then copy the main layer and add Unsharp Mask at whatever settings you usually use.